IThe temples brought us here; but it was our Khmer Friends that made us want to stay!
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 15/04/08
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Travel Advice updated 29 Apr 2008

 Updated temple advice 

Visas

Flights

Money

Health 

Photography

 Overland  

 Travel in Cambodia

 Travel Costs

Temples  

 Mines & Beggars

Best Time To Go to Cambodia

The Rainy Season: May to November can bring many rewards. Although the weather can be humid at times, the temples and countryside look quite stunning.

The rains usually occur in the afternoons and evenings and take the form of intense thunderstorms.

The most popular time to visit is in the cooler Dry Season, from November to April.  Hardly any rain falls and skies are usually clear. Humidity is much lower, evenings are pleasant and early mornings sometimes feel a little chilly. It is still very hot during the day with temperatures averaging  28-30o Celcuis or mid 80s Fahrenheit.

The popularity of this season means that at peak times the sights are crowded and queues develop at the ticket booths. By timing your visit to avoid main sights in the peak hours and visiting the less known temples; it is possible to have a much more relaxed visit.

Most of my temple pictures were taken in May to November when the rains bring out the fabulous colours and textures in the stones and vegetation. There are less visitors at this time and it is possible to find peace and tranquillity among some quite popular sights. The downside is that travel to more remote areas by land can be difficult.

Cambodia Visas                                                                     Updated 19 Feb 2008

Visas can be obtained on entry to Cambodia at airports and many overland crossing points.

There are relatively few Cambodian consulates around the World for advance visa purchase; but it is hardly necessary given the ease of getting one on entry. 

Some travellers obtain their visas from the Cambodian Embassy in Bangkok The Embassy moved from the old site near Lumphini Park to a location well out of the city on the way to the Morchit Northern Bus Station. The Govt web site still states the old location and signs  to the Embassy in Lumphini were  still in place a year after it moved!

If you do manage to find your way  the new embassy; I suggest you pay the $10 express service fee so you can get the Visa on the spot.

Tourist visas cost $20 and are valid for one month.

Visas for Malaysian and Singaporean citizens are not required

Sri Lankan Citizens need a letter of authorisation from your  Government to enter Cambodia. You will be refused entry if you do not have this document

Tourist visas are Single entry.  If you leave Cambodia you will need a new one when you return. Tourist Visas  can be renewed once for an additional month for $45.

E visas $25 are now available online some land crossings including the popular Poipet route. They eliminate the Visa scams at that crossing. and  reduce queuing time at Airports.

 Check the E Visa Web site below for updated details

Official Gov't E Visa web page see link below:

http://evisa.mfaic.gov.kh/index.php?version=eng

 

If you want to stay longer;

1 month Business Visas cost $25 and are renewable through some travel Agencies.

Thai Visas Entry stamps are given free for 2 weeks to 1 month at overland border crossings for most countries in Europe  and US etc. if you are coming from an unusual country and are passing through Thailand check with your countries embassy (or website).

New visa regulations mean a requirement for onward travel is needed. This is necessary for inbound flights. The situation officially applies at land borders as well; though it is not always enforced

Vietnam Visas

We can obtain Your Vietnamese Visa for you, in 3 -4 Working Days; the price is currently $35.  If you are passing through Bangkok or Phnom Penh you can get your Vietnamese Visas there through many travel agencies at a lot less cost than UK or USA.

Laos Visas

 Airports and some land borders with Thailand  issue a Visa on Arrival for $35.

I you are travelling to  Laos via Cambodia border, you will need a Visa in advance.

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Flights to and from Cambodia                                     Updated 27 April 2008

Flights are best booked well in advance. Most people fly through Bangkok. As the regional hub it used to have  the best and cheapest choices.

There are some good deals to Siem Reap through Air Malaysia via Kuala Lumpur International Airport KLIA An increasing number of guests are travelling by this route. also Flights vie Singapore can be a good deal (Singapore and KL are 2hours flying time from Siem Reap)

Costs to Bangkok from London for example can be as low as under £400 ($800) return; but expect £700 ($1400) or more at Christmas or if you have to fly at short notice.

Prices have risen in April 2008 due to the rises in fuel.

For international flights using Malaysian Airlines you can check in at KL Central Station which is the city Transport hub. The fast KLIA Express takes less than 3Omins and cost 35MYR (you cannot do this if you are using budget carriers like Air Asia)

 

Air Asia www.airasia.com and Jet Star Asia are now operating from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok at discount  prices.

This has significantly reduced the cost of a short break from Malaysia and Singapore! To get the best price it is best to book well in advance.  

A new Low Cost terminal KLCC for Air Asia and Jet star etc opened at the end of May 06. This is 15kms by road from KLIA.

The low cost airlines have lower baggage limits 15Kg and are not flexible, If you want to change at short notice they will impose big surcharges .  If  they cancel or delay your flight they will not be responsible for onward travel arrangements. 

There is a bus shuttle service from the main KLIA airport to KLCC:  15mins for 1.5 Ringits   There are direct buses to KLCC from KL Sentral Station:  1h 15mins for 9 Ringits .

 

If you need to fly direct to Siem Reap from Bangkok the only airline is  Bangkok Airways. The single and return fares are very high.

You can get a better deal with Bangkok Airways if you buy a multi destination ticket within Thailand and to neighbouring countries inc Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. Contact Bangkok Airways for details

The new Bangkok International Airport opened on 15th September 06 This is 30kms from the old Don Muang Airport which reopened for passenger services for domestic flights In March 07

In 2007/08  fuel and other surcharges have been increased significantly. Many airlines do not state this clearly in advertising.

 

The  new Terminals  at Siem Reap Airport were completed in 2006 giving much improved and attractive facilities.

There is a hefty $25 departure tax from Cambodian Airports for international flights and a variable rate  for internal. This applies to PP to Siem Reap (Flights are approx $70 +  tax)

For children under 12 years old the departure tax in $13 international and $3 internal

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Flying via Phnom Penh   Updated April  2008

It is well worth flying here either on the outward leg or on return. Prices start at around $85  each way. However there sometimes is a lower baggage limit than on International Flights. This should not be  problem off season, but on busy flights in peak season you may have to pay a baggage surcharge. We will clarify this if we obtain air tickets for you.

There is a variable  departure tax from Cambodian Airports for  internal flights. This applies to Phnom Penh to Siem Reap  $7

Travel within Cambodia    updated 29 Apr 2008

Now that the roads are improving; travel by bus on main routes are now  more reliable and faster. Off the main roads there is little or no public transport. Only a few percent  of Cambodian roads are paved. Travel to most places in the Dry season is possible; but in the rainy season come routes become difficult or impassable

Buses from Siem Rep to Phnom Penh take around 5 1/2   hours and cost between $4 and $10. There is usually a 1/2 hour stop in Kompong Thom or Skun (depending on bus Co)

The main Bus station is 3 KMs east of town. It is a very chaotic entry to Siem Reap. Some of the better bus companies have now moved to their own facilities.

Mekong Express have well organised facilities nearer town. Other companies are also doing the same; so the situation will change in the near future!

Please let us know which Company you are using to assist us in your pick up

Taxis cost  $60  for the journey which takes 4-5 Hours

It is also possible to go by road or take a boat to Battambang and continue to Phnom Penh by bus; allow  2 days to do this.

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Fast ferries do the PP SR run in around 6 hours.  Boats are running daily but due to competition by the buses there are less of them The boats have a car service to pick up passengers from their hotels in Siem Reap 5:30 am.

Warning about the Boats

The boat companies operating the Phnom Penh Ferries have little regard for the comfort or safety of passengers. We are getting reports that no proper gangplank is provided or assistance with luggage at Siem Reap. Passengers may have to jump down to the causeway or will have to cross a precarious plank with no handrail.

We advise anyone who is elderly or not fully mobile not to use these boats

 

In the Low water  Season esp. Late Feb to July, the water levels on the Tonle Sap Lake make boat travel slower and less reliable. There are sometimes 2 -3 changes of boat and at worst it can take 9 or more hours. There is no food or drink provided on these boats.

Examples of fares and timings    

Fast Ferries

Timings  

 Cost

Notes

Ferries (Royal, Chenna Rambo )

dep SR  7:00 arr PP 12:30

$25

Pick up from hotel in Siem  Reap 5:30

Battembang  Depart Siem Reap Port 7:00 arrive ??? pick up 5- 6am from hotel. $15

Ferry can take between 6 & 12 hours depending on river levels.

Bring drinks, food, waterproof baggage, a sense of humour and infinite patience!

Road Transport

 timings

Cost

Notes

Mekong Express Bus

dep SR  7:30 8:30 arr PP 1:15 4& 2:15 Stops in Kompong Thom 2 1/2 hours from S reap

$10.00

Mekong Exp  have a courier, on board WCs a light meal and drink; drivers are safer than most. Mekong bus now has its own Bus station

Angkor Express

As above; stops in Skun 1 1/2  hours from Phnom Penh

$8.00

a/c Buses have  WCs. drinking water  supplied.

GST. Neak Korohorm & Capitol Tours

Various departures during the day

$4-$5 You get what you pay for! Don't expect luxury, WCs or working a/c; but you will get there!

Taxi

Departure flexible; 4.5 hrs journey time

$60 

Up to 4 passengers. An English Speaking driver will cost $10 more

Minivan Good choice for small groups. $130+ We can arrange a van for groups costs depends on vehicle used.

Please note that there are seasonal variations and bus discounts; especially from Phnom Penh so don't be surprised to find cheaper fares at times.

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Overland Routes To Cambodia Updated 29 Apr 2008

The overland routes into Cambodia are generally improving; however even the main routes to Siem Reap are unpaved or in a very poor state of repair . We recommend taking the air con public bus from Bangkok (Morchit) Northern terminal. If you catch a bus at  7am or 7:30 you can get to Aranyaprathet at 1 pm.  A short Tuk Tuk ride (5Km) takes you too the Cambodia border (cost 80 THB)

The train from Bangkok is a good and enjoyable option. Trains leave at 5:55 and arrive at Aryanapathet around 12pm. There are many willing tuk tuk drivers to take you the 6kms to the border.

Don't be persuaded to buy onward tickets on the Thai side as you are likely to have long delays waiting for a bus and you will be likely to suffer the same fate as those buying a ticket from Bangkok,

The Poipet Border

The Poipet Border has not a very good reputation for touts and scams.  It is not a place for the inexperienced or uninformed  traveller; as there are a number of touts who’s primary purpose is to extract money out  of any unsuspecting  tourist who passes through.  

Those who try the “easy way” and get a through ticket from Bangkok are most likely to be scammed for excessive visa fees,  money exchange scams and excessive travel delays.  A “cheap ticket bought in Bangkok is likely to cost a lot on both time and money.  It happens every time regardless of that the agency says.

The couriers and touts  are  professional con men;  make fortunes at the expense of the visitors and severely damage the reputation of Cambodia for all the budget tourists that  pass their way.   The bus companies  use delaying tactics and often well rehearsed breakdowns to increase the length of the journey so the passengers arrive late at a commission paying guest house.

The GH owners involved in these scams are  not usually very cooperative (even to those who have booked accommodation elsewhere).  The GH owner pays thousands of dollars in advance for the companies to bring guests to their door.  there are no refunds if the guest goes anywhere else ; so the owner can put a lot of pressure on people to stay.

The more informed independent traveller who follows the advice below and has transport organised through us in advance  will have an easier time and considerably less cost. 

To avoid any problems with touts and scams please follow these instructions

·        When you arrive at Aranyaprathet the Thai Border town, take a tuk tuk from Bus or Train station to the Border 6kms; approx 80THB per tuk tuk. the Tuk tuk will stop 50 metres from the new covered border post and  Thai immigration.  If anyone approaches you with offers of assistance do not take any notice.

·         You will find boys with trolleys to assist with baggage.  If you really have to use them; keep one of your party  with the trolley and do not let your baggage out of sight.  Only pay $1 once you on the Cambodian side of the border.

·       If anyone on the Thai side claims to be from us and has your name; it will be a certain scam. Our driver will always be on the Cambodian side of the border .

·         On exit from Thai immigration walk thru the no mans land with the Casinos 500metres to the Cambodia immigration.

·         If you do not have your visa in advance keep $20 bills to pay for your visas. The official Visa charge  is $20.  If you pay in Baht you will almost certainly be overcharged.

·         If anyone tells you to change cash for reils don’t  do it; as USD is accepted almost everywhere. You will get a poor rate of Exchange on the street.

·         On exit from immigration you will find a shuttle bus to take you to the taxi stand; where our driver will be waiting.

·         Look out for our orange and white Peace of Angkor board with your name pre printed.

·         If you have any difficulties or cannot find our driver; please phone our reception 063760475.

We have a car service to take you from Poipet to Peace Of Angkor with no hassles.  just let us know 2 - 3 days in advance.

The fixed taxi fare has risen to for tourist cars to Siem Reap. This has been enforced by the authorities by putting up the fee that drivers have to pay per journey $10 for cars with foreigners)  Prices can vary between $50 and $60 depending on demand.

The  cost of the bus service to Siem Reap is  $11 per person. The bus is ending its journey at the new Bus Station East of town. We understand that there can be delays waiting for the bus to fill up; but the bus drives direct to Siem Reap  Bus Station with a short stop and is taking up to 5 hours due to the poor state of the road.

The new  bus station  is a  chaotic entry to Siem Reap. Please be patient if you have pre arranged a pick up.  There are a lot of drivers and in busy periods it will take time to find our driver with our orange peace of Angkor Board.

Tales of Asia has a useful information  on this subject which makes interesting reading

Road conditions are still rough but improving.  It is rough in places  from Poipet to 30kms east of Kralanh  (that is two thirds  of the 180kms ) Allow 3-4  hours for the journey in dry season.

The route to Phnom Penh is now much improved; 314 kms of tarmac road; buses take 5 1/2 hours; cars  4 1/2 hours. If you are travelling by bus, we will pick you up at the bus station.

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Links

Up to date resources for general info on Cambodia and overland travel :

 

Money & Exchange     Updated 19 Feb 2008

Take ample amounts of US Dollars here. They are the most widely used currency in Cambodia.

 You get 4200r to the US$ or 7200 riel to the GP£  .

Some areas near Thailand use Thai Baht, though you would get a worse exchange rate. US$ Travellers cheques are the best ones ones to have. Commission rates  for T/Cs are 2- 4%.

In practice the 4000r to the dollar rate is still being used for convenience

Rate for Thai Baht to US$ is generally   30THB to 1$

It  really isn’t  worth changing local currency when you arrive, as riels are just used as small change. There are no coins; just low value notes; 100r = £0.8p. Virtually all businesses convert riels at the following rate $1=4000r, For example when changing dollars and are expecting $1.25 in change you would get $1+1000r(25c)

There are now ATMs for foreign accounts in a few places in Cambodia. the ANZ royal Bank brought the first ones to Phnom Penh in November 2005 and many  branches of local banks now have them. ATMS are in the following places:

  • Phnom Penh

  • Siem Reap

  • Battembang

  • Sihanoukville

  • Kampong Cham

They all dispense cash in US $ 

There ATMs in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap Airports. Also some  convenience stores U Care pharmacies and a few Caltex filing stations have ATMs

Do not expect ATMs  anywhere else yet

It is also is possible to get cash on Visa card. Use the right bank and you can get 0% commission. There are limits to the amount of cash that can be withdrawn.

Credit cards are becoming more accepted here; usually  in large shops International Hotels. Although they are not supposed to, many  charge up to 5% per transaction.

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Temples and Passes

There are 3 Temple Passes currently available; all are purchased at the Ticket Office on the road to Angkor Wat. For the multi day passes there is a web cam at the booths so  get a photo on the spot. In busy periods, queues can be long.

We recommend a minimum of 3 days to visit the Angkor Temples. The sites are so big and spread out that anything less than that  will not really do these fabulous sights justice. The heat Even in the "'cool"' season can make scrambling around the ruins hard work.

A  week pass is good value for temple enthusiasts; as even some of the smaller sights require a pass.

There are a lot of Tourist Police who do spot checks. There are fines of $100  for those without a ticket and severe penalties for anyone foolish enough to remove any of the temple artefacts.

  • 1 Day $20: giving access to all Temples in the Angkor Park inc Banteay Srey and Kbal Spean

  • 3 Day $40: this is the most popular; most of the main sights can be covered in 3 days.

  • 7 Day $60: with this pass you have scope to visit a lot of the outlying sites and have a rest and relaxation in between.

  • Koh Ker $10 and Beng Mealea  $5

  • Banteay Chhmar $5

  • Phnom, Koulen $20 (discounts available for groups through us )

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Health

There are no compulsory inoculations; however some vaccinations are strongly advised.

Below is just a brief guide. Please consult your Doctor for advice. 

Hepatitis A, B  and Tetanus vaccinations are advised. Typhoid, Japanese Encephalitis & Cholera do occur in some areas of Cambodia and can also be inoculated against. 

Yellow Fever: an inoculation certificate is required if you are travelling from an infected area. It  is not normally necessary if you are coming from Europe or USA etc.

Malaria  and Dengue Fever are  a risk in Cambodia; they are both carried by mosquitoes. Within towns and cities like Phnom Penh and Siem Reap areas, Malaria risk is low. Out in the country, one would need to be especially careful after dark. Long sleeves and light coloured trousers will help, as will a good insecticide spray. Doctors and pharmacies prescribe various types of Malarial pills. Some like Malerone are  very expensive. 

Most common types are easily and cheaply obtained in pharmacies here and Thailand without prescription. 

Dengue fever: is less dangerous than Malaria, but it can be very unpleasant.  The mosquitoes carrying this disease are active by day. Unfortunately there is no vaccination available, so one should take similar precautions as you would for Malaria Particular care should be taken in the early mornings and late afternoons.

Salt deficiency and dehydration: can be a problem if not enough water is taken. Drink far more (water) than you would do in temperate zones and take plenty of salt with food.

Health Insurance: is essential as some medical facilities are not yet up to western standards. Healthcare  for Westerners is  improving in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Outside of these areas you will need to use local Hospitals and clinics. These are improving but are not recommended unless there is no alternative,

We can put you in touch with reliable 24 hour  English speaking  doctors in Siem Reap in the unlikely event of you being unwell.

Food hygiene: and water can be a problem in some areas . All western run and most Khmer run restaurants provide good safe cooked food. Ice is a problem outside of tourist areas as purified water cannot be  guaranteed. Water at our villa in many places in Siem reap is now chlorinated after new drinking water systems were put in place in early 2006.  Although it is safer to drink it doesn't taste nice. so bottles water is still advised

Other water is taken directly from underground; so  we do not advise drinking it! 

We have ample supplies of clean bottled water for guests.

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Toilets

There are good  WC/Restrooms at many of the main Angkor Temple Sites. They are of a decent standard with Western loos and are usually kept immaculately clean; You need to show your Temple Pass for free admission

In the towns and bus stands etc WCs are mostly  good. Many Hotels and the better eating places  places have clean western style toilets of a standard that we found surprising on our first visit. Standards can be  higher than neighbouring Thailand for example. Toilet paper is not usually supplied; so take tissues just in case.

Only out in the country  do conditions deteriorate; where facilities are basic or non-existent. 

Land mines and Beggars   Updated 16th July 2005

Cambodia is one of the most heavily mined countries in the World; the large numbers of maimed beggars on the streets are testimony to this.  

Towns and tourist sights are safe.. Only if you go wandering off the paths in rural areas against advice will you be at risk.

It is a very sad fact of life here that there are a number of disabled beggars on the streets here. There is no social welfare, but there are disabled support groups like Angkor Association for the Disabled who train disabled people to develop their skills and improve the quality of life for their families. 

It is far better to give to charities like this than the persistent beggars who hang around the Old Market in Siem Reap. They annoy tourists and I'm sure that some; if they had the will or the encouragement; could do something useful to earn a living. 

We are actively supporting the Angkor Association for the Disabled and welcome donations.

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All images and text © Dave Perkes 2008 www.peaceofangkor.com

Peace of Angkor Villa  0133 Slorkram Village, Siem Reap, Cambodia 

  PO Box 93125   ( 855 (0)63 760 475   Email us