Temple Updates
Temples and tourism update -
April 2008
Work in progress on the restorations is continuous; this guide concentrates
on the temple restorations and any access restrictions. If its not
mentioned, there is no significant work in progress.
Angkor Temples
Angkor Wat
The work on the Western Causeway seems unending; but the south side of the
causeway is now
complete. There is work in progress on the west and south facing towers and
the eastern entrance to the
Central Sanctuary. The eastern gallery on south section; including
part of the famed Churning of the ocean of milk
is being renovated most is still visible.
There is no public access to the Central Sanctuary on the
Third Level of Angkor Wat .
new steps have been built: but works are gong on in the Central area of Angkor Wat; It
is possible that the top level will be open again when work is complete.
From February Angkor Wat will be floodlit from 7:30 to
9:30pm
The whole site is lit including the bas relief's,
Tripods are provided at strategic locations; but if
you have a heavy camera is best to take your own tripod.
There is a separate $15 Admission fee (The Angkor Pass does
not cover this) Unfortunately the tickets for entry have to be bought from
an inconvenient location on the Eastern By-pass road.
Phnom Bakheng Hill
The sunset hill of Phnom Bakheng is becoming seriously overcrowded at
weekends and peak tourist season November to March There is an
average of 3000 people climbing up the temple for a view of sunset over
Angkor every day. The huge numbers are doing serious damage to the
buildings; so if you value peace, your sanity and have some sense of
conservation then don’t go there! At other times of the day it can be a
very peaceful place.
Angkor Thom
There is no major work other than normal
maintenance and tree management.
Bayon
Major work is going on to the outer galleries to the south east library; most of the
rest of site is clear of scaffolding at present.
Baphuon This incredible construction site is now opening up to the
public with access to the causeway and outer areas. There is limited access
to the first level to see in detail the work that is in progress.
One can see very clearly the results of 30 years work; which commenced on
the 1960s. After the interruption by the Khmer Rouge; work re-commenced in
the 1990s, The daunting task of piecing together the giant 3D puzzle,
without the master plan, began. The Baphuon is taking shape slowly and maybe
in 5 years this spectacular domed temple will be seen in its full glory.
Chao Say Thevoda
Several years of Restoration work has been completed in mid 2007 on this
small temple; paired with Thommanon.
Ta Prohm
Huge numbers of visitors, major restoration work, new wooden walkways have
taken away much of the Jungle Temple atmosphere. the Indian Government are
working on the site to make it safer for the hundreds of thousands that
visit it. This means that some parts of the site are off limits while work
is done. Work is nearly complete on the First Western Gopura and terrace
which most people see at first. Much of the interior is clear of work.
Phnom Kulen
There have been a lot of improvements to Phnom Kulen in
recent years; including new stairs to the Reclining Buddha and waterfalls.
Access is only possible in the mornings before 12 PM
The cost of $20 each for foreigners is unchanged
Preah Khan
After the completion of restoration and repairs in 2005 it looks wonderful!
There have been a few tree casualties due to safety reasons. One of the 2
spectacular trees at the East Gopura had to be cut down in 2005; and a very
tall sponge tree was removed earlier on 2006 ; because if was in danger of
bringing down the stone structure that supported it. Preah Khan still
remains a stunning place with the best atmosphere of all the major sites.
Preah Neak Pean;
This small temple has water features which dry up in
most of the year; so if you want to see it at its best; October through
November has most water.
Other Sites of general interest
Land Mine Centre run by Aki Ra, closed for relocation at the end of
April 2007 It has reopened in a new building on the road to Banteay Srey
approx 20kms from Siem Reap.
The Angkor Museum is now open. This
impressive new building is be a showcase for many of the ancient artefacts
that have been languishing in the Angkor Conservation Depot. Work is still
going on; with many of the artefacts not in place yet or unlabeled.
The admission is $12 for foreigners
Temples Outside of the Angkor Park
Banteay Srey: The temple is in fine condition since its restoration in
2005. Its also very busy with hundreds of visitors coming in be the busload.
It is best seen before 8:30 when the tour buses start arriving.
Kbal Spean
The Main changes here are new WCs which are of a very high standard.
several new rest shelters on path which is now marked with big signs stating
the distance every hundred metres.
The stolen Vishnu figure that caused such disfigurement to the sacred site
in 2003 has now been replaced with a splendid new one in September. The
river and cascades are now filing up due to unexpected rain in March . Kbal Spean is at
its best from May onwards.
Beng Mealea
Has been tamed somewhat in 2008; visitor numbers are increasing due to the
new tarmac road which goes from Damdek to Beng Mealea and on to Koh Ker.
Its taking around 1 hour from Siem Reap and 1 ½ hours via Banteay Srey
which is gravel in parts.
The entrance pass of $5 is bought at a checkpoint 1 km from the village.
There are new clean WCs with toilet paper. There are places to eat and WCs at
the village to the South Entrance of the Temple.
The overgrown moat is now being cleared and deepened to improve the water
supply to the villagers; a tangible benefit of tourism
The wooden walkways have been extended to cover the central area with new
steps constructed to allow easier access to higher parts of this ruin.
There are restrictions to acess of some parts after accidents involving
tourists
Medical Facilities and First aid is very limited so
be warned. Iam expecting a lot more restrictions on acess once the work to
improve the walkways are completed.
Climbing is at your own risk
It the Rainy Season is ; Beng Mealea becomes a lot
more hazardous. The Guardians do offer some assistance; but the wet stones
can be slippery so: caution, a head for heights and good footwear is
essential if you go off the main walkway route.
The Temple city of Koh Ker
Koh Ker is being developed as a major tourist destination and as a result
there have been big changes here in 2007. The Temples are being made fit to
mass consumption and as a result the clearance of vegetation and tidying up
has reduced the Jungle temple atmosphere somewhat. apparently only 2200
people visited Koh Ker this year. most were Khmers. the Apsara Authority
want more Foreign tourists to come here.
The road passing
through Svay Leu (Upper Mango) is being progressively tarmaced. The tarmac
extends north of Svay Leu; but came to a halt in in the rainy season 2007 .
Much of the remaining route is in good condition (March 08) so it can
take just over 2 hours from Siem Reap.
The Koh Ker Temples
Starting with the pyramid of Prasat Thom First: The moat has been
mostly
cleared; taking away the atmospheric vegetation; but giving nice views of
the central Sanctuaries and the red brick tower of Prasat Krahom. The Prasat
Thom Pyramid can now be seen from the SW corner of the moat.
Turning to the Central Sanctuaries; the once beautifully atmospheric area of
bushes, grass and brick ruins, have been cleared and work is in progress
(November 07) The brick towers with the scraps of ancient stucco to the west
are untouched. The outer walls and the East Gopura have been stripped bare
of all vegetation. The trees still remain in most areas and many still stand
in the enclosures.
Many of the structures have and are being fenced in; which now means that
visitors have a short walk in to see most of the temples; which is no
bad thing.
Koh Ker Accommodation and facilities
The village of Sray Yong 10 kms south is the main place to stay. The
existing and very basic Koh Ker GH has 5 rooms with a few more in progress. Sray Yong Is
being developed as a town: a new
market has been built and a couple of new guest houses have opened.
Other options are home stay in the Koh Ker Village but bring bedding and
mosquito net.
There are more sheltered eating places at Prasat Thom near the principal
gopuras. There is now a fence preventing vehicular access; so cars and vans
have to park by the road.
The new toilet block near Prasat Thom is
a good facility with western style flush WCs and toilet paper provided.
The tourism development are going to have benefits for
some of the local population. certainly the improved road links will
benefit everyone. I am not convinced that it will be a major tourism
destination, as there are so many temples at Angkor to visit and to be
honest Koh Ker is special because of its remoteness, jungle Atmosphere
and lack of tourists. Take away that special atmosphere and it
will just become another set of brick and stone ruins.
I just hope that it does not become an expensive Koh Ker
theme park that few people visit.
Banteay Chhmar
Access to this site is improving with the upgrading of Route 6 to Sissophon.
By early December the road the route north from was repaired; from a
horrible mess in Mid Nov; so the 70kms drive from Sissophon. is taking 1h
15mins.
There is work in progress to restore the eastern walls and plans to restore
parts of the interior of the temple. The supervisor of the work told me (in
Feb 07) that eventually the trees will eventually be removed and new ones
will be planted outside. That will be sad if this does happen, as the trees
are an attractive feature and give shade to visitors.
Admission remains $5 (the guards may ask for $10 but don’t pay that!)
according to the visitors book there are approx 1 person visiting each day.
Banteay Chhmar is probably one of the best large temple sights to
really get away from the crowds.
Sambor Pre
Kuk
This 7th Century temple
city near Kompong Thom has up to 200 temple sites in a jungle area.
pre-dating Angkor Wat by 700 years. The brick temples are well worth a
detour and an alternative to Koh Ker if you are heading from Phnom Penh to
Siem Reap. Currently there are no regular admission fees; but use of the
local guides and a donation is recommended. Temple fees are likely to be in
place soon.
Preah Khan
Kompong Svay
Otherwise known as Prasat
Bakan; this vast site covering 4 times the area of Angkor Wat is in a remote
area which is hard (and expensive) to get to. It is the domain of 4Wd or
trail bike. Deep sandy trails and a un-bridged rivers make it a challenge to
get to in the dry season and impossible in the wet season. May to December.
There are no admission fees, or tourist facilities and the nearest village;
Ta Seng has no guest house but a homestay can be arranged. Heavy rain can
make roads impassable
Preah Vihear
can be visited as a 2 day trip with an overnight stay on the mountain. In
January 08 roads were generally good but a 10km section from Along Veng to
Preah Vihear is a mess of huge ruts which have made travel difficult but
passable on a 4wd or trail bike.
Like many remote sites it is recommended to take advice on the state of the
road before travel in the Rainy season. May to November .
The road up the Preah Vihear is still as steep as ever; however there
is more concrete slab paving (some of the older stuff is breaking up
already). We now drive up using 4wd as pickups are harder to get now. There
are still motos that will take you up. but I'd not recommend this on safety
grounds.
Accommodation at the Environment hut at Preah Vihear is no longer
available as the Authorities no longer allow anyone to stay at the top of
the mountain. There is a good simple and comfortable guest house
at in the market area on the hill at the base of the temple. (shared WC and
Bucket shower) You can walk up the Temple easily from there.
Preah Vihear Temple has now been cleared of land mines so it is a lot
safer place to visit. There are no major changes to the structure or
renovations going on at present. Visitors can still roam free without the
‘No Climbing” signs that are springing up elsewhere. The view from the roof
at sunrise is spectacular.
Prek Toal
Bird Sanctuary
(Season from December to Mid April) the Sanctuary closes from Khmer New Year
and will not reopen until November 2008
Ang Trapang Thmor Bird Sanctuary
(Season from December to end of April)
This vast reservoir and surrounding area is the dry season home of the
extremely rare Sarus Crane; which can be seen in their hundreds between
January and May.
TIP: Best time to visit is
between February and early May !
Kompong Phluk
This small lake village moves out into to temporary stilt houses constructed
for the fishing season. They are a fascinating sight and the fishing
activity going on makes it a worthwhile trip. water levels are rising (Aug)
so boat access is good; however the road vie Roluos is not passable due to
flooding; but motos can get you to where the boats dock (you may have to get
off and paddle for a short distance)
Kompong Khleang
This lake village is always interesting; gets few visitors and in the dry
season it is spectacular . Road links have improved with a new tarmac
causeway to a bridge a few Kms north of the land village. For much of the
year you will need to get a boat to village and lake. From June; it is only
possible to get there by boat.
Moat Khla is a remote floating
village SE of Kompong Khleang it is rarely visited. The best option is to
get a boat from Kompong Khleang( over two hours each way).
Bokor
Mountain
in Mid January the 33 km
access road was closed to enable the rebuild of this road. The closure wil
last up to a year while the major work is carried out. The Sokka Hotel group
are rebuilding the old Casino so the old hill resort will be changed
forever.
End of update.
04/04/2008
